Tuesday, August 16, 2011

Hiking to Observation Point, Zion NP, Utah

While last year we really loved hiking to Angel's Landing, we decided with only one full day in Zion, that perhaps we ought to do another trail with spectacular vista views. Of course, we opted for a harder trail than last year.

Sidenote: last year Zion was one of the last parks we visited, knowing that we'd want to attempt the nearly 5-mile and 1488 ft ascension to the peak, and worked up our stamina to be able to do it. I guess I figured since we managed the 7-mile and 1100 ft ascension at Harney Peak merely days before, that we'd be fine doing a harder and longer trail.

The trail to Observation Point begins at the Weeping Wall trail-head and it starts climbing almost immediately. This trail is an 8-mile round-trip with a 2147 ft ascension and is not for those who are afraid of heights. However it's almost entirely paved and switchbacks make it do-able.
It begins with a series of switchbacks that quickly lead you up the side of the rock-face,  producing more and more beautiful views at every turn.
This is the last view of the main canyon for a while as the trail bends southeast into Echo Canyon. Having done little research for this particular trip to Zion, I did not realize that the canyon would narrow into a slot canyon, delving 20ft down a very narrow passageway. Frankly, this was one of our favorite parts of this hike. Maybe because it was unexpected?

Once you leave the narrow section of Echo Canyon, the trail begins ascending again up the north side of Echo Canyon and the views are of the primarily white canyon walls where trees and shrubs precariously grow, providing little shade in this arid and bright landscape.
(This photo was actually taken on our way back, but I wanted to show the trail etched into the cliff.)

Relief from the climb came in the last mile or so to observation point. It was mostly flat and occasionally provided some shade. There were several times where the view seemed spectacular enough to stop and head back, but then the trail led into an area of brush where the view is less interesting, and suddenly out of the brush and voila: 270 degree panoramic views.
Mike had fun pulling out his binoculars to see if he could spot people on Angel's Landing, which seemed a lot higher up when we were there last year - and a LOT more crowded. That place would've looked like an ant hill with the swarms of people. This year we saw very few over there.

So it took us about 3 hours to hike to Observation Point, we spent an hour at the point, just soaking in all the views (thankfully my camera also did some soaking so my brain would not have to remember it all), and then the two hour hike back down would inevitably come back to haunt us the next day.

We were too tired to cook, so in the name of a new tradition, we went back to have pizza at Springdale's Pizza and Noodles restaurant where we could sit outside and enjoy our food.

Feel free to comment. If you've been to Zion, I'd love to know what you saw and if you'd recommend other hikes. Though I have a hard time wanting to go back to parks I've already seen - there are just so many and I want to see them ALL - I could go back to Zion. It's so beautiful.

Photos copyright Katrina Kouba Boles

Next up: Bryce Canyon NP, Utah

This is a series on our 2011 trip. Here are the previous posts:

Wednesday, August 10, 2011

Zion NP, Utah

I'm not usually keen on visiting the same place year after year on my vacations. However, as I talked about in my last post on Grand Teton, the weather was not cooperating. Last year we vacationed in Southern Utah, visiting 10 National Parks and monuments in two weeks. It was a bit insane and though we feel no need to return to some of those parks, Zion and Bryce were two parks we wanted to re-visit.

Our drive, once we left the Jackson Hole area, was beautiful. Gorgeous sunny weather and perfect temperatures. We pulled off the highway and met Dr. Murdoc Henderson, cycling from the West coast to the East coast to raise money for deaf South Africans. He founded the organization Intaba, Inc. At the rate he was riding we figured he'd make it to MO before we would.

Anyway, we arrived at Zion, set up camp and then took the bus into the park to do a quick hike. We decided to hike the emerald pools trail (one we didn't do last time).
 Campsite at Zion South Campground
 Court of the Patriarchs, Zion NP

 Waterfall to Lower Emerald Pool


Photos copyright Katrina Kouba Boles

In case you missed my posts from last year's visit to Utah, here are some easy-access links:
Next up: Hiking to Observation Point, Zion NP

This is a series on our 2011 trip. Here are the previous posts:

Thursday, August 4, 2011

Grand Teton NP

Our original plan was to spend five days in Yellowstone, then two days at Grand Teton before heading down to Rocky Mountain National Park. All the snow in Yellowstone made it impossible for us to do the hikes we wanted and after four days of geysers, we'd had enough. So, we decided to leave a day early for Grand Teton. The weather was gorgeous. Perfect blue skies and perfect temperature.
So we found a campsite with a decent view, and then hiked around Jenny Lake, through some snow, to Hidden Falls. The views of the lake were quite stunning, but since we were hiking at the bottom of the mountain, we had only a few beautiful views of the mountains and that was a bit disappointing.
By the time we got to Hidden Falls, the wind had picked up, bringing the clouds with it. So we decided to head back to camp. By the time we got near our campsite, the wind was ripping white-caps into the lake and the rain was coming at us diagonally. Our tent was continually collapsing and we eventually decided to pack up and head out to get dinner.
Feeling down and concerned that the weather channel was predicting seven more days of storms and rainfall. We discussed our options, and eventually decided that it would be worth it to change our plans. The prediction for southern Utah showed 0% rain, sunshine and 70-80 degree weather. Now, we had planned on a colder trip, so we were less prepared for the warmer weather, so it meant stopping to get some short-sleeves and possibly some shorts. But the idea of changing our plans reinvigorated my excitement for vacation and we loved our visit to Utah last year. So, the next day we were off to Salt Lake City for one night, and then we headed on to Zion and Bryce Canyon, Utah!

Photos copyright Katrina Kouba Boles

Next up: Zion NP, Utah

This is a series on our 2011 trip. Here are the previous posts:

Sunrise at Yellowstone

This was how our day started. It was early and very cold. We got up to watch the sunrise from fishing bridge and it was worth it. Numb fingers made it difficult to take photos, but the view was stunning.

Frost on Fishing Bridge, Yellowstone NP
Photo by Mike Boles

Unless otherwise noted, all photos copyright Katrina Kouba Boles

Next up: Grand Teton NP

This is a series on our 2011 trip. Here are the previous posts:

Friday, July 29, 2011

Day 4 in Yellowstone NP

On our final day at Yellowstone, we headed off to see the park's most famous feature - Old Faithful. For those of you who don't know, Old Faithful is located in the Upper Geyser Basin, an area that has a lot of thermal activity and several interesting features. On our way to the Old Faithful area, we stopped at Kepler Cascades.

After three nights of camping, we figured it was about time for showers, so we first headed to the Old Faithful Inn (I wasn't really eager to try the showers at the Fishing Bridge RV park...it looked a little dodgy and expensive for what we'd get). For anyone who's considering camping in Yellowstone and possibly concerned about the shower situation, the Old Faithful Inn was a great place to shower. It was inexpensive, you can buy soap and rent towels, and it was very clean and nice. For anyone visiting this area, regardless of whether you need a shower or intend to stay the night, at least take the trouble to go into the main lobby of this historic inn, as it is really something else. Check out my 360 panorama in Photosynth from the lobby:

Here's another way of viewing the lobby image:

Mike finished showering first and I found him out on the patio, sitting in the shade with a darn good view of Old Faithful. He got there just in time to see the eruption. I got there just as it ended. Oh well, I figured, I've seen it before and most likely will get to see it again...little did I know we'd spend all day waiting and watching geysers, including Old Faithful.

The boardwalk of the Upper Geyser Basin is jam-packed with geysers, and it seems like the only way you could miss seeing a single geyser eruption would require both bad luck and a super quick perusal.
Map of the Upper Geyser Basin from The American Southwest
We walked from Old Faithful to Castle Geyser, as Castle is one of the predictable large geysers, and I wanted to see what time we might get to see it (around 8 pm that day), and then up to Grand Geyser, another large predictable geyser. We got there right at the middle of the expected eruption window, sat and watched for a while, then got restless. We saw Sawmill, Penta, Spasmordic, and Grotto geysers erupting. I suspect during the two hours we decided to wait for Grand, we were also seeing the smaller eruptions of Turbine Geyser.
Penta Geyser, Yellowstone National Park
And then, in the last two minutes of the predicted eruption window, Grand put on a show, spraying boiling water and steam to a height of 180-200 feet for 12 minutes. This fountain geyser looks much different from other geysers in it's eruption because of how it erupts from a pool, spraying water outward in addition to upward. Grand, the world's tallest predictable geyser, performs for a short time, then acts like it's done for about a minute, and then the water shoots out at it's peak.
Grand Geyser, Yellowstone National Park
Photo by Mike Boles
 Grand Geyser, Yellowstone National Park
After Grand's eruption, it was two hours past lunchtime, so we headed off to find some food. After lunch, we went to the "new" welcome center (it's new since the last time I was at Yellowstone, 10 years ago, but I don't know when it was built). We watched an unremarkable introductory video, then felt better about our own abilities when it comes to creating motion media. They time the video to show about 10 minutes before an Old Faithful eruption, so we headed outside to watch. Once again, the geyser waited until the last couple of minutes of the eruption window.

We hurried off to the ranger talk beginning at Castle geyser, and enjoyed that. There was a lot of information given on that talk, though I think we'd already gathered some of it from the previous ranger talk and reading all the signage about individual thermal features. One thing that we got from this talk and nowhere else was why the arid landscape was littered with little mounds of grass...buffalo dung. Perfect picture of a cycle: buffalo eat grass, poop out unneeded nutrients, grass grows in the dung, buffalo eat the grass...

After the talk, it seemed time for dinner, but it was also nearing sunset and another Old Faithful eruption. There were some people sitting out on the benches, none over where the sunset could be seen behind the geyser. Instinctively, I thought, why not sit there with the sun in our eyes, yes, but when the geyser erupts we'll get a very different view of it than what you typically see. On every vacation I try to get at least one time-lapse of a sunrise, and at least one of a sunset. By this point I was 0 for 2. Why not find out what the sunset would look like behind an eruption. It meant missing Castle Geyser's eruption, but I think it was worth it:
 Old Faithful, Yellowstone National Park
Old Faithful, Yellowstone National Park,
Photo by Mike Boles
Unfortunately, it's hard for photographs to really capture how interesting how the light was changing during this eruption, but typically before the sun hits the horizon, it can be really hard to look directly at it without clouds or something blocking it. In this case, it was boiling water and hot steam. And it was really quite awesome.

Unless otherwise noted, all photos copyright Katrina Kouba Boles

Sidenote: If you are interested in any of my puzzle photos, I often get them printed in poster-size and would be happy to sell one to you. I have many more from other vacations and locations as well. Send me a note or post one here and we can chat. Perhaps I'll share more of the ones from previous trips in another blog.

Next up: Sunrise at Yellowstone, Grand Teton NP and a change in plans

This is a series on our 2011 trip. Here are the previous posts:

Wednesday, July 20, 2011

Day 3 in Yellowstone NP

On June 4 we moved our camp from Madison to Bridge Bay Campground. On our way there, we stopped at the Artist Paint Pots area to walk the boardwalk. From a viewpoint above:


Once we got to Bridge Bay we discovered that our site was under a couple feet of snow, so we had to find one they could give us with a dry spot for our tent. Fortunately we found one:
By this time it was well past lunch time and we chose to drive out toward Yellowstone lake to eat something. Another set of PB&Js... But the lake, also covered in snow, was quite a place to view. The waves of snow were particularly curious, as were the melted spots (from thermal features under the lake).


Sadly, because of all the snow and runoff, the only hiking we realized we'd get to do would be on the boardwalks. So, to more thermal features we went.

At the mud volcano boardwalk we managed to meet up with a ranger talk just after it had started. It was a really engaging ranger talk about change and how this park is constantly changing. The features change, and even a feature that seemed to never change at some point went from a lake that trappers used as a bathtub to a highly acidic "sour" lake. We were also fascinated to learn about the buffalo; and he impressed upon us all that we should not take them to be stupid and slow. They are quite the contrary, able to run at speeds up to 35 mph, to clear a fence in a bound from standing, and people have been killed by them.

After the guided walk, we headed off to see the upper and lower falls of the Yellowstone River. Starting at the Upper Falls viewpoint, we'd hoped to take the trail to the Lower falls, but it was covered totally in snow along the cliff, and it was getting dark. So we took pictures, then drove to another lookout of the Lower Falls.

(this is my first attempt at creating a high dynamic range - HDR - puzzle image)

We had thought maybe we'd be able to return during the day and hike if we decided to stay two more days in the park, but we changed our plans and headed to Grand Teton a day early. Next up...our final day at Yellowstone with the most famous geyser.

All images copyright Katrina Kouba Boles

Up next: Day 4 in Yellowstone NP

This is a series of posts following our vacation. Easy access to previous posts:

Tuesday, July 12, 2011

Day 2 in Yellowstone NP

Day two in Yellowstone was a beautiful day: much less windy though still on the cool side. With a good part of the park still covered with snow (it was the first week of June), we headed North to the Tower-Roosevelt part of the park, where rangers had pointed out a few hikes not under snow or water. One of those hikes was the Hellroaring Trail and on our way to the Hellroaring parking lot, we stopped at Gibbon, Rustic, Undine and Wraith falls.
 Gibbon Falls, Yellowstone National Park
 Rustic Falls, Yellowstone National Park
 Yellowstone National Park
 Undine Falls, Yellowstone National Park
 Wraith Falls, Yellowstone National Park

The Hellroaring trail, used also for backpacking, drops for the first section down to the suspension bridge over the Yellowstone River, then through a wooded area followed by a sagebrush plateau. The 4 mi (round trip)  day hike is intended to end at the Hellroaring Creek, but we turned around early as the signs were not giving us directions to the Creek. We suspect that at the final junction (based on the map) we should head to the left, but a group of bison were in that direction, and with other groups of bison further up from where we came down the plateau, we opted to head back. It felt for the most part like we had the trail to ourselves. We passed a few backpackers and started off behind a group of day hikers, but otherwise it was just the two of us. Since Yellowstone is bear country, we did a lot of talking and fortunately if any animals were around, they were warned off by our voices. The ascent at the end of the hike was a workout for our legs and warm in the sun, but certainly not unbearable.
 View from Yellowstone River Suspension Bridge, Yellowstone National Park

After the hike, we drove to Tower Falls. Unfortunately, the trail to the bottom of the falls was closed, so we were only able to see it from the lookout above. The last time I was in Yellowstone, ten years ago, the hike to the bottom of Tower Falls was one of the few non-boardwalk trails we actually did, but it was later in the summer and the falls were not as full.
Tower Falls, Yellowstone National Park

On our way back, and just a few miles from Mammoth, there were a slew of cars parked along the road, which usually means one thing: bear. So we had to join the crowd, and after much careful searching, we spotted what everyone else was seeing: a bear and an elk acting strange. Several onlookers were certain the elk had a calf hidden in the brush somewhere and she was trying to lure the bear away. As the bear got farther and farther away, I decided I really didn't want to see it catch the calf and we headed the rest of the way back to our campsite.

All photos copyright Katrina Kouba Boles

Next up: Day 3 in Yellowstone NP

This is a series on our 2011 vacation. Here are the previous posts: